This dish is a story of failed attempts...
But it just goes to show that if you're stubborn enough, you can make
just about anything work.
One of my best friends in London makes a wonderful Japanese Cucumber
Salad. To this she adds Bosc pears, sesame seeds, and rice wine vinegar.
This dessert is an adaptation of that dish. On my first attempt, I tried
to reduce rice wine vinegar to make a glaze, which I could spoon around
the base of the pear and cucumber sorbets. The taste was too sharp, so I
tried champagne wine vinegar and then added lemongrass, in keeping with
the Asian theme. Unfortunately, it was far too sweet, nearly resembling
corn syrup.
I also wanted to temper the sweetness of the sorbet with a bit of
salt--in this case, a parmesan sesame tuille. However, the cheese tended
to exude too much while baking and the coloring of the tuille was very
uneven.
I also experimented with texture, which I consider just as important as flavor. About four months
ago, I recall Chef Susan talking about a dish garnished with "fennel
powder". This got me thinking about wine--merlot and pinot noir--and how I
might change the "texture" of wine by changing it into a powder form. I
started by baking slowly on sheet pans, but the wine simply turned
viscous and eventually burned. Then I turned to the Yellow Pages in
search of companies that freeze dry food. This was unsuccessful, so I
tried taxidermists. The taxidermists, although cordial, were a bit
confused (and amused) to hear my predicament... ("Hello, my name is Lisa
and--well, this is a rather long story--er, I'm experimenting with sorbet
recipes..."). The taxidermists (who obviously didn't want to cross over to
new markets) enthusiastically persuaded me to try Plan B. Looking for
the path of least resistance, I chose another approach. I had seen a
Thomas Keller recipe for powdered carrots, so I considered making a
blackberry powder. However, the blackberries I found in the markets were
bitter, and I didn't want to intensify that flavor.